City of pizza, mobsters and history - Historic Centre of Naples 726; Art of Neapolitan ‘Pizzaiuolo’ 00722
What and Why
Naples (Italian: Napoli) means the new city, but as a matter of fact, the city is one of the oldest in Europe and as part of Magna Graecia (Greek: Μεγάλη Ἑλλάς, Megálē Hellás), played a very important role in linking the Roman and Greek culture. The place has transformed from the colony of Parthenope (Greek: Παρθενόπη), meaning pure eyes to Neápolis (Greek: Νεάπολις) to the Kingdom of Naples (Latin: Regnum Neapolitanum), to Two Sicilies (Latin: Due Sicilie) to the present unified Italy (Italia). As a result, there are heritage and cultures flowing all over the cities for tourists to explore, from the very old to the recent. Even though it had changed hands so many times, Naples has always remained itself as a wealthy and influential city, and hence the city brims with an air of royalty and extravagance, although much of the presnt heritage came from the powerful Bourbon era of the Kingdom of Naples.
As a UNESCO WHS, the size of it is also the largest in Europe, including, albeit unnecessarily, Caserta, Pompei, Vesuvius into its ambit. The beauty of the city is best exemplified by this famous proverb, made famous by Johann von Goethe, 'See Naples and die!' (Latin: 'Vide Napule e po' muore!'), meaning one can die peacefully after seeing the unparalleled beauty of Naples.
Of course one should never forget that the modern form of pizza comes from Naples, which becomes one of the iconic food of Italy.
Toponymy
'Naples' and 'Napoli' derives from 'Néapolis' which means 'new city' in Latin.
See
Most of the main monuments are located in the historic centre (centro storico). Due to the long rich history of the city, you will find yourself immersed with beautiful ancient buildings just by aimlessly strolling around.
Egg Castle (Castel dell'Ovo)
The Egg Castle (Castel dell'Ovo) houses the Museum of Prehistory (Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli) and is located in a little island / peninsula (depends on how you read map). Legend has it that the Roman poet Virgil Maro (Latin: Vergilius Maro), who also had a reputation as a great sorcerer and fortune-teller, had put a magical egg into the foundations to support the fortifications.
New Castle (Castel Nuovo)
A formidable looking fort as in the main picture, New Castle (Castel Nuovo) is just in front of the ferry pier and easily the landmark of Naples. It offers probably the best photogenic spot in the city and houses an art gallery.
Plebiscite Plaza (Piazza del Plebiscito)
The Plebiscite Plaza (Piazza del Plebiscito): Originally designed to honour Napoléon Bonaparte, legends have it that you cannot walk a straight line if you walk with your eyes closed. The front dome is the church of San Francesco di Paola is reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome (Roma).
Galleria Umberto I
Galleria Umberto I: A very grand but heavily worn-down shopping gallery, but the shops are absolutely crappy.
Saint Charles Theatre (Teatro San Carlo)
Naples' famous opera house, Saint Charles Theatre (Teatro San Carlo) is apparently the oldest continuously operating opera house in the world, dating back to the early 18th century CE.
New Jesus Plaza (Piazza del Gesù Nuovo)
New Jesus Plaza (Piazza del Gesù Nuovo): Landmark square with a very imposing neo-classical church.
While the exterior looks pretty stoic and dull, it does mask what is inside a very ornate church.
San Domenico Maggiore
A Gothic, Roman Catholic church and monastery, San Domenico Maggiore is founded by the friars of the Dominican Order (Latin: Ordo Praedicatorum) in the 10th century CE near New Jesus Plaza and is one of the most important churches in Naples.
Naples Underground (Napoli Sotterranea)
Naples Underground (Napoli Sotterranea) is an underground world dug throughout the ages. At first the tunnels were formed as rocks were quarried, however as a result of long quarrying, the resulting caverns were later used to form water reservoirs into which water was diverted from the main aqueducts, with many internal rooms being created during the process. All these networks being built underground more than 2,500 years ago. These network provided fresh water supply to the buildings above through the cisterns. Fascinating visit. However the place is quite dark and hence photography is quite difficult without a professional camera. The guided tour lasts about 90 minutes.
Via San Gregorio Armeno
Via San Gregorio Armeno is famous for its outdoor markets and small shops in Naples where one can shop around. Beware of pickpockets though. Mainly sells porcelain souvenirs.
Buy and Do
Along the many markets and street bazaars, the most common souvenir seems to be the porcelain sculptures. The other surprises are the puppets and Diego Maradona memorabilia. Naples is infamous for its crimes.
Eat and Drink
Neapolitan pizza (Pizza napoletana)
Pizza was recorded as early as 10th century CE, and its name derived from the Latin word pinsere, meaning to pound. The Naples-styled pizza, known as Neapolitan pizza (Pizza napoletana), is considered the origin of all modern pizzas. Neapolitan pizza is a traditional speciality guaranteed (TSG) product in Europe, and the art of its making is a UNESCO ICH.
It gained international recognition with the simple Pizza Margherita, the original one, with nothing more than fresh tomatoes, basil, fresh mozzarella and a little olive oil. The pizza in Naples is different compared with others even in Italy, the dough is a bit more chewy and thin like an Indian paratha (Hindi: परांठा, parāṇṭhā). The Magherita pizza was named after Queen Margherita of Savoy (née Margherita di Savoia) after her visit to the city in 1889 CE. Having heard of the city’s famous peasant food, she was presented with the dish by the city’s premier chef, Raffaele Esposito. Three pizzas were presented to show the typical choices of the time. The queen was impressed by the colours of the pizza, which resembled the national flag, and it was named the Pizza Margherita in her honour, a name it holds to this day.
The cooking of the Margherita is regulated by law since 2004 CE: The pizza is cooked traditionally in a wood-burning oven, the ingredients must include wheat flour type 00 with the addition of flour type 0 yeast, natural mineral water, peeled tomatoes or fresh cherry tomatoes, mozzarella, sea salt and extra virgin olive oil.
By the way, as pictured above, we were told that an Italian pizza is supposed to be eaten as a whole, and not sliced. It is served piping hot and is eaten with knife and fork, piece by piece like cutting a piece of steak, not slice-handheld.
We had our lunch at the legendary Gino E Toto Sorbillo, one of the institutions of pizza with its reputed cast of pizza makers (pizzaiuolo) in the city. To show its reputation, we met a couple from Milan (Milano), who flew all the way here for one hour just to savour its pizzas. It opens at 12 noon sharp and you are expected to queue for at least an hour to get a table.
Getting There and Around
Surprisingly you can get away from the toll fee easily by walking. Most of the historic sites are within walking distances. We walked from the main train station to Gino Sorbillo then all the way to the Palazzo Reale and it was a two or three hour comfortable walk. Naples is an established urban city with good connexion in metros. Most churches are free. We recommend at least two or three days for the sites in the city. Just beware of pickpockets.
UNESCO Inscriptions
From the Neapolis founded by Greek settlers in 470 B.C. to the city of today, Naples has retained the imprint of the successive cultures that emerged in Europe and the Mediterranean basin. This makes it a unique site, with a wealth of outstanding monuments such as the Church of Santa Chiara and the Castel Nuovo.
The art of the Neapolitan ‘Pizzaiuolo’ is a culinary practice comprising four different phases relating to the preparation of the dough and its baking in a wood-fired oven, involving a rotatory movement by the baker. The element originates in Naples, the capital of the Campania Region, where about 3,000 Pizzaiuoli now live and perform. Pizzaiuoli are a living link for the communities concerned. There are three primary categories of bearers – the Master Pizzaiuolo, the Pizzaiuolo and the baker – as well as the families in Naples who reproduce the art in their own homes. The element fosters social gatherings and intergenerational exchange, and assumes a character of the spectacular, with the Pizzaiuolo at the centre of their ‘bottega’ sharing their art. Every year, the Association of Neapolitan Pizzaiuoli organizes courses focused on the history, instruments and techniques of the art in order to continue to ensure its viability. Technical know-how is also guaranteed in Naples by specific academies, and apprentices can learn the art in their family homes. However, knowledge and skills are primarily transmitted in the ‘bottega’, where young apprentices observe masters at work, learning all the key phases and elements of the craft.
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